MEXICO CITY:
Marvelous and Misunderstood

Travelers often view Mexico City as a launching pad from which to take off on their way to other parts of the country. But the city is more than just a hub for reaching Gaudalajara, Acapulco and elsewhere. It is also a hub for Mexico's arts, finance, history and politics. Why not stay a few days in the 386-square-mile capital that is always spring-like and in bloom? You might spend one day each in the Chapultepec Park area, the Historic Center and the southern section.

Garden at Chapultepec Castle
Garden at Chapultepec Castle
Credit: ©Paul Noble

The Garden at Chapultepec Castle is a cross between Central Park and the Bois de Boulogne. The 1600-acre Park contains five museums, two lakes and a zoo. One of those museums, the National Museum of Anthropology, has three miles of exhibits on two floors. It boasts an overwhelming Mayan temple reconstructed in its entirety, other ruins and 26 displays of extraordinary ancient artifacts.

Another must-see situated on the same acreage is the National Museum of History at Chapultepec Castle, a spectacular and beautifully preserved memorial commemorating 200 years of history. The building formerly housed several Mexican leaders, including the controversial Maxmillian during his brief reign. Highlights include beautiful murals, a gold leaf carriage, stained-glass windows, antiques and a garden designed with a perfect sense of symmetry. Even the tearoom and the restrooms are unusual.

Scattered throughout the city are 1,500 historic buildings, many of which were turned into museums. You will find a number of unique ones appealing to special interests. The Diego Rivera Mural Museum was built to showcase his famous "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park," which was rescued from a hotel demolished in an earthquake.

Some of the interesting attractions are located in outlying areas. Thirty-one miles away in a northeasterly direction is the famous site of Teotihaucan, once a sprawling ancient city with a 215-foot high pyramid. Thirty-eight miles to the southeast is Xochimilco, the celebrated "floating gardens," filled with colorful trajineras (Mexican-style gondolas) which take tourists through the canals as they are entertained by mariachi and marimba bands.

Shopping is excellent, ranging from mercados offering Mexican artifacts to American-style malls. In the Polonco neighborhood, a modern area of upscale shops, you can find such brands Armani, Versace, Hermes, Gucci, Tiffany and so forth.

It is effortless to get around. Private cabs cost about $15 an hour and will wait for you while you sightsee. However, you should ask your hotel to call for a taxi, which brings to mind a misconception that the city is extremely dangerous. Not so, unless you are going to walk the streets alone at night wearing a Rolex. If you are cautious, you will find that it is no less safe than in any other metropolis.

Two final notes: It is easy to reach Mexico City on Aeromexico, the country's premier carrier. A friend who travels there frequently reminded me to pack extra padding for my shoes especially for the back of the feet. That advice made a big difference and I'd be a heel not to share it with you.


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